2020 M. & C. Lapierre Beaujolais Morgon 'N'
LEGENDARY NATURAL WINE ALERT!
"Our ideal is to make wine from 100% grape juice." ~ Marcel Lapierre
We've just received our annual 24 bottle allocation of this beautiful Beaujolais from the world renowned Lapierre domaine.
The Lapierre estate, one of the most legendary in all of Beaujolais, is now run by the late Marcel Lapierre's children Mathieu and Camile. Marcel was one of the Gang of Four, a group of Beaujolais producers who spearheaded the idea of "natural wine" and traditional winemaking techniques in the 1980s. These rebels called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification: starting with old vines, never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides, harvesting late, rigorously sorting to remove all but the healthiest grapes, adding minimal doses of sulfur dioxide or none at all, and disdaining chaptalization. Only about 8000 cases are produced annually across all wines.
This bottling is 100% Gamay, certified organic by Ecocert from a 60 year old, 10 hectare (24 acre) vineyard planted on granite-based gravel. It's harvested by hand as late as possible to achieve maximum ripeness. The grapes are rigorously hand-sorted and fermented whole clusters à l’ancienne at low temperatures. Of course, only native yeasts are used. The resulting wine is aged on its fine lees in old Burgundy barrels (from third to thirteenth passage) and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Long story short, these are completely naturally made wines.
2020 was a warm, drama free growing season in Beaujolais, with no frost and a dry end to the season that reduced yields and concentrated fruit intensity without sacrificing acidity. Still a young wine, this opens up with some air to show off warm, ripe but still crunchy red and dark berry fruits laced with floral and spice notes, with Lapierre's characteristically mouth watering acidity and sneaky tannins providing structure. It's already delicious to drink, but will easily continue to develop over the next ten years. It's another example of why we just love drinking Beaujolais. ~Ryan Smith, Enoteca Direct
94 points, James Suckling. "Still has a whiff of youthful funk (from reduction), but after a couple of swirls of the glass this blossoms, becoming fragrant and expressive. The fine-grained tannins and mineral acidity give this a wonderful texture on the palate that’s not quite like anything else in Beaujolais. Very long, silky finish. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. Drink or hold."
91 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. "Lapierre's 2020 Morgon offers up aromas of plummy fruit and raspberries mingled with hints of petals and spices. Medium-bodied, satiny and enveloping, its succulent core of fruit is framed by melting tannins and mouthwatering acids. This thirst-quenching, fruit-driven Morgon is one of the purest, most precise young wines I've tasted from this address in recent years."