2012 Hubert Soreau Clos L’Abbe Brut Nature
Hubert Soreau is not from Champagne and like many outsiders who have found their way into traditional, European viticultural regions, he is making waves. He is part of the single vintage, single parcel, single barrel approach currently utilized by a handful of growers in the region, but he also brings to his work a perspective unencumbered by traditions and conventions. From a parcel of old chardonnay vines located on the border of Epernay and the Côtes des Blancs, the fruit is picked by hand and vinified and aged in neutral 300L barrels harvested from the nearby Hautvillers forest. After 6+ years of aging sur-latte, it was disgorged and bottled with minimal dosage. Aromatically, the wine resonates with white fruits, citrus, and a clear, stony, mineral edge. On the palate, the wine is taught, balancing rich texture with electric acidity which gives the wine a feeling of power and weightlessness. Soreau’s 2012 is delicious, and is highly allocated.